Growing up in a typical Bengali family meant that Durga
Puja started way before the eventful six days; it began right from the moment
when Birendra Krishna Bhadra's rich baritone used to evoke Maa Durga at 4:00 in
the morning on Mahalaya. It was the moment from whence the entire Bengal used
to come to a standstill, pretty much assured in their belief that there can be
nothing more important than this; the rest of the world can wait. And even today in an age of smartphones and impending internet.org, it still does…
For the uninitiated, Durga Pujo celebrates the victory of Maa
Durga on the demon, Mahishasura and also her agaman (arrival) on earth.
But let’s be serious, for every self-respecting bangali out there, it also
means:
1. Chanda
dewa in the parar pujo (Hefty donations for the neighborhood pujo). We compete to pay less and we compete to pay more. Depends on our competition!
2. New
outfits for all the six days (for the ambitious its new outfits every morn and
eve)
3. Meeting
age old friends and adda about everything under the sun (Be prepared for
zealous arguments on politics, cinema, feminism and whatnot. You name it, we Bangalis
will definitely have an opinion on it)
4. Whole
night pandal hopping (Yup. Way before the pub and bar crawl, there was the "Pujo-Pandal Crawl")
5. Fasting
and offering anjali (morning prayers) in the morning then promptly breaking it
with a sumptuous breakfast of luchi arr alu dum
6. Food.
Be it the 5 star restaurants or the street vendors. We will devour everything and
anything, albeit its cooked well.
Pujo Pandal: Tawaifs' Kotha (Courtesan's abode) created beautifully with melodious raags playing in the background to set the ambiance |
And just as the pujo brings forth a plethora of rich
succulent food and an array of new traditional attires, it also arouses a varied
sense of emotions, as every one of us is equally passionate and opinionated in
immersing ourselves fully in every single detail of the process, right from the extravagant pandal themes to the dance and song performances; but that too is part of our culture and we
are never apologetic about it. After all, Bengalis are born critics, it’s our
second nature.
For the rest of the world, it might seem an exaggeration.
They might go, "But surely, the entire state doesn't stop functioning
right? Is that even possible?" Well, my only reply to them will be
"Come down to Kolkata during the pujos my friend....There is a reason why
it has been quite famously called the City of Joy".
Of course, you have to be prepared for the pandemonium of dhakis and Rabrindra Sangeet, the jostling and hustling of crowds,
the aroma of fried food and sweetmeats battling
it out on every street corner, the traffic jams
that can easily last for better part of an hour so much so that you
can easily get down from your car, visit nearby
pandals and get back again.
Nevertheless, believe you me, its definitely an experience of a lifetime.
Of course, you have to be prepared for the pandemonium of dhakis and Rabrindra Sangeet, the jostling and hustling of crowds,
the aroma of fried food and sweetmeats battling
it out on every street corner, the traffic jams
that can easily last for better part of an hour so much so that you
can easily get down from your car, visit nearby
pandals and get back again.
Nevertheless, believe you me, its definitely an experience of a lifetime.
Oh wait, what about the Bangalis staying outside the state of West
Bengal?
The “Probashi Bangali”.
The “Probashi Bangali”.
Avatars of Goddess Durga seen in Kolkata |
Well, for the rest of the year this lot is quite content
in another part of the world, in a home away from home blending in with the people
and culture around them, and then quite suddenly the pujo fever strikes. This
is the only time of the year that a distinct but collective change is seen in
all of them...there is a definite spring in their step, a purposeful glint in
their eye, a sense of suppressed energy waiting to burst, their heart and soul
fixated with only one particular thought “Maa Aschen” (Maa is coming).
I have often seen that for Bengalis living outside Bengal celebrating the Durga pujo with all its rituals and traditions is a matter of
grave interest. Cause as a probashi
bangali, it becomes all the more important for them to hold on to the
traditions and to ensure that every single ritual is carried out impeccably. Of
course, it’s more than a religion for them as well; it’s that
time of the year
when they unabashedly come out of the closet as quintessential Bangalis,
celebrating their ‘Bangaliana’.
But be it Pashim Banga nibashi or probashi (from Bengal or outside of
Bengal), every Bangali feels a sense of loss on the day of bisharjan (immersion
of Durga). For the next couple of days there is a sad lull in the air, men and women seem to lose their sense of purpose, life seems quite ordinary. Knowing the utter emptiness in our hearts that
the end of this festival leaves behind, our forefathers had planned for this phase as well. Immediately after this, we have a host of other pujos to keep
us busy almost throughout the rest of the year. No wonder
there is a proverb: "Baro Masher Tero Parbon" (Roughly translated as
13 festivals in 12 months).
Still who are we kidding, Maa has gone back to her
celestial abode, taking a part of us with her. Every year the completion of
Dashami (the last day of the pujo) seems like an end of an era, and while I get
back to my mundane life, the Bangali in me has furtively started planning out the coming pujo, very certain that no matter how early I start it's never time enough...
So in a true Bangali style let me bid adieu to this year's experience;
“Asche Bochor Abar Hobe”.
-Dugga Dugga !
What a brilliant write up... 😎👍
ReplyDeleteThank you. Was missing Kolkata and the pujo too much :)
ReplyDeleteI'm glad Durgo Pujo finally energized you enough to write a new article! (it's nothing short of a miracle)
ReplyDeleteEnjoyed your funny honest tidbits woven in what i believe were lessons of Bengali Culture 101. Good job
PS: I'm a bit sceptical about your claim of the whole state coming to hault. I guess will have to see that for myself!
Haahaaahaa...I am planning to write more...lets hope it doesn't get stuck at the planning stage. And yes, visit Kolkata during Durga Pujo and you will be convinced.
DeleteSo it got stuck at planning stage.. Huh?
DeleteIts weird how people worship durga ma, and still look upon womankind as having no power over most of their major decisions in life. Even in the 21st century, women have always been the weaker gender, no matter how hard we try to uplift them socially but personally we still think "biye kobe hochhe". Anyways i am nobody to judge others, i believe if i can bring a change my 'significant others' life, i can initiate a change in the outlook of society.
ReplyDeleteYes, I do agree with you on this. And even though change does begin with us, nevertheless we should be vocal about such issues. Its not judging, its standing up to the injustice being meted out to the women of this world. We are born equal.
Delete